Bike Packing in South Korea - April 2026

The conflict in the Middle East thwarted my cycle plans for the Canary Islands so I looked for a last-minute alternative destination and when I came across South Korea's Four Rivers Bike Path — officially the Cross-Country Cycling Road — I was immediately interested. A 633-kilometre route, fully paved, 99% car-free, running from the airport at Incheon near Seoul all the way to Busan on the south-east coast. Direct JetStar flights from Brisbane sealed the deal. I left my bike bag and suitcase at an airport hotel, clipped in, and set off.

The bike path traces the Han, Nakdong, Geum and Yeongsan rivers through picturesque landscapes and meticulously kept rest stops. The surface is smooth tarmac the whole way – not a pot hole in sight! The route follows old railway lines in places, which means tunnels — ever grateful!  Roughly every 50 - 80 kilometres, a telephone box appears, fitted with a unique rubber stamp for cyclists to mark their cycling passport — they appeared to be well patronised.

The spring flowers were in full bloom, and the cherry blossoms were spectacular. For kilometre after kilometre the path ran beneath a canopy of pink blossom, with azaleas — white, magenta and deep crimson — bursting from every bank. It was a bonus I hadn't planned for.

I was very excited to see my first cycle roundabout — but before I had cleared Seoul, I had passed through half a dozen.



The cycling infrastructure is amazing. Bathroom facilities, clear signage, coffee stops, underpasses and kilometre markers run the entire route. Seoul and its surrounds have a population of 26 million — over half of Korea's population and the fourth-largest metropolitan area in the world — and yet clearing it by bike was very manageable.

I spent a rest day touring South Korea’s second largest and southern city, Busan, then set off for the East Coast Cycle path – a dedicated cycle paths for about 70% of the way with shared roads for the remainder. 


I had a rest day in Gangneung then set off for Pohang in the middle of the peninsula - it hosted the 2018 Winter Olympics so quite a bit of climbing.  I then made my way back to Seoul.

The route is not without its reminders of a complicated past. Loudspeakers are ubiquitous along the riverbanks — a relic of the propaganda competition with North Korea. Pill boxes are a reminder of the Korean War.

I took a day tour to the DMZ — the demilitarised zone. The Korean War Memorial in Seoul is also worth a visit. Both were sobering experiences. At the Korean War Memorial in Seoul, I stood in front of the Australian memorial pillar: 18,000 participants, 1,216 wounded, 340 killed in action. Next to it, the USA pillar: 1,789,000 participants, 36,574 killed. Total deaths during the conflict exceeded 5m – half being civilians. The numbers are staggering.

The ride highlights coincided with the most memorable stretches of riding. The boardwalk path at Chungju Lake — a narrow wooden deck hugging the water's edge — was beautiful. The fish bridges on the Nakdong River are extraordinary: two enormous silver structures, each shaped like a carp and a salmon, large enough to enclose a visitors' centre inside the body. Against a deep blue sky they are genuinely spectacular.

Accommodation along the route was never a problem, though always an adventure. I didn't pre-book any accommodation except for the airport hotel and was turned away just once.   Taking the bike into the motel room was not an issue.  Price for a 3-star motel was about $50 to $60 per night.

The food is outstanding. Markets are piled with pancakes, rice rolls, hotpot and noodle soup. Jokbsal is a wildly popular all-you-can-eat hotpot franchise in South Korea — I had no idea what I was eating at the time, but it was delicious. 
 

I was fortunate to have no mechanical issues with the bike and only one puncture.  I tried a Tailfin set up for the first time and was very pleased with its functionality.

Overall

Cycling in South Korea is safe, well signed, perfectly surfaced, with excellent facilities and exceptionally clean. The history is fascinating, the food excellent, and the spring flowers were a bonus I hadn't expected. I would recommend South Korea as a cycling destination without hesitation.

Peter Skinner