Western Front Way – Sep 2025
I have always been intrigued by WW1 so in 2015 when I read about the newly created Western Front Way – WWF – a 1000km walking and cycle path that follows the line of the WW1 trenches stretching from Switzerland to Belgium, I was hooked. The concept was inspired by a letter written in 1915 by Alexander Douglas Gillespie, urging that once peace came a “broad road in the ‘No Man’s Land’” be made.
The Route
My preference was to join a cycle tour, but I could find no offerings. However, the official website for the Western Front Way - Waytrails.com, provides digital maps, resources, and itineraries so a self-guided cycle tour is relatively easy to plan. The start point for me was Kilometre Zero as the Swiss border and the end point was Nieuporte in Belgium on the English Channel. Many do the journey in the other direction.
Kilometre Zero - on border with Switzerland, France and Germany
I found the official path very frustrating - more suited to walking than cycling despite their contrary claims. I had a few rainy days and parts of the track quickly deteriorated into a boggy mess requiring an extensive cleaning exercise. So, most times, I used the WFW as a guide and plotted a route each day. Ride with GPS put me onto quiet roads and bicycle paths.
My Bike
The cars were particularly respectful of cyclists - mostly waiving me through even when I should have given way. E-bikes were a different matter as I had a few close encounters. They swarm like ants in the cities!
Brothers in Arm Memorial
I was fortunate in having no issues with the bike. I cleaned the chain 3 times - once at a car wash! I was pleased to carry a spare battery for the derailleur - my failure to monitor meant a battery change in the middle of a ride.
Chemin Des Dames
The highlights coincided with the main battle sites - Vogues Mnt (2 excellent centres at Linge Memorial and Hartsmannwillerkopf), Chemin Des Dames, Verdun and the Somme. The Somme is the most accessible from Paris and is a very large area with the main sites including Sir John Monash Centre, Menin Gates, Tynne Cot and Vimy Ridge - all memorable. There are many organised days tours to the major battle sites from Paris and Brussels.
Irish Memorial
Travelling with the bike box proved to be exceptionally easy although I did have to book a hotel in Brussels close to a bike shop. I glued a set of Bunning’s wheels to the bottom of the carton and that proved to be most useful in navigating through the airports.
Vimy Ridge - the Canadian Memorial
Overall, it was both enlightening and very sobering at times. I rate it highly though.
Sir John Monash Centre - not to be missed
The Christmas Truce
Verdun
Thanks Tubeless!!!
Peter Skinner